Leachianus Gecko care guide
Rhacodactylus leachianus
The largest living gecko: a heavy-bodied, vocal, locality-driven arboreal species and a serious collector animal.
Quick reference
Temperature
72–80°F; avoid sustained heat above 82°F
Humidity
60–80% at night, drying during the day
Lighting
Low UVB (2–5%) recommended
Enclosure size
Adults: 24x24x36 in vertical minimum with large-diameter cork tubes
Lifespan
20+ years
Adult size
10–17 in depending on locality
Substrate
Bioactive soil with heavy leaf litter
Water
Bowl plus misting
Setup checklist
Everything that should be running and stable before the animal comes home. Print this and tick it off.
- Adult-sized enclosure: Adults: 24x24x36 in vertical minimum with large-diameter cork tubes
- Heat source on a thermostat — never plugged straight into the wall (72–80°F; avoid sustained heat above 82°F)
- Digital probe thermometer for the warm side and a second for the cool side
- Digital hygrometer
- Lighting: Low UVB (2–5%) recommended
- Substrate: Bioactive soil with heavy leaf litter
- At least two hides — one warm, one cool
- Water bowl, heavy enough not to tip
- Clutter: cork bark, branches, plants and leaf litter for cover
- Reptile-safe disinfectant and paper towel for spot cleaning
Supplies & shopping list
Enclosure
- •Adults: 24x24x36 in vertical minimum with large-diameter cork tubes
- •Secure lock or clips
- •Background or opaque sides for security
Heating
- •72–80°F; avoid sustained heat above 82°F
- •Thermostat (dimming or pulse-proportional)
- •Digital probe thermometers
- •Infrared temp gun for surface readings
Lighting
- •Low UVB (2–5%) recommended
- •Timer for a consistent 12/12 photoperiod
Substrate
- •Bioactive soil with heavy leaf litter
- •Spare bag for full changes
Decor
- •Two hides
- •Cork bark, branches or climbing structure
- •Leaf litter and plants for cover
- •Water bowl
Food & tools
- •Complete powdered diet plus insects; occasional fruit
- •Diet 2–3x weekly, insects weekly
- •Feeding tongs
- •Hygrometer
- •Reptile-safe disinfectant
Diet & feeding
What they eat
Complete powdered diet plus insects; occasional fruit
How often
Diet 2–3x weekly, insects weekly
Water
Bowl plus misting
Handling
Keep minimal — many individuals are defensive and bite hard
Beginner mistakes to avoid
- •Under-housing: floor space and basking distance matter more than any other single factor
- •Using coil or compact UVB instead of a linear T5, or never replacing the bulb
- •Skipping calcium and multivitamin dusting on feeder insects
- •Measuring air temperature instead of the basking surface temperature
Common problems to watch for
- •Aggression between housed pairs
- •Overheating
When to see a vet
Any of these warrant an appointment with an experienced exotics veterinarian, not a wait-and-see.
- •Soft or rubbery jaw, tremors, twitching or dragging back legs — metabolic bone disease
- •Not passing stool for over a week with a loss of appetite — possible impaction
- •Swollen limbs or joints, or a jaw that no longer closes
- •Discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth; laboured breathing
- •Sudden weight loss, sunken eyes or a persistently dark stress colour
Myths vs facts
UVB is optional if you feed supplements.
Fact: Most diurnal lizards need UVB to synthesise D3. Supplements alone rarely prevent metabolic bone disease.
A bulb that still lights up is still producing UVB.
Fact: UV output decays long before the bulb fails. Replace on schedule, typically every 12 months.
Loose substrate always causes impaction.
Fact: Impaction is usually driven by low temperatures, dehydration or poor diet — not by substrate on its own.
Keeper tips
- •House singly unless actively breeding; leachies will kill cagemates
These guides describe widely accepted husbandry practice and are not veterinary advice. Consult an experienced exotics veterinarian for health concerns.
