Blue-Tongue Skink (Tiliqua spp.)

Blue-Tongue Skink care guide

Tiliqua spp.

LizardsDifficulty: IntermediateLifespan: 15–20 years

A robust, dog-tame omnivorous skink with real personality. Ground-dwelling, food-motivated and highly rewarding to keep.

Quick reference

Temperature

Basking 95–105°F, ambient 78–85°F, cool side 72–78°F

Humidity

Species-dependent: Northern 40–60%, Indonesian 70–80%

Lighting

Linear T5 UVB (6–10%) across the basking zone

Enclosure size

Adults: 4x2x2 ft minimum with deep substrate for burrowing

Lifespan

15–20 years

Adult size

18–24 in

Substrate

Cypress mulch or soil blend, 4–6 in deep

Water

Large bowl, changed daily

Setup checklist

Everything that should be running and stable before the animal comes home. Print this and tick it off.

  • Adult-sized enclosure: Adults: 4x2x2 ft minimum with deep substrate for burrowing
  • Heat source on a thermostat — never plugged straight into the wall (Basking 95–105°F, ambient 78–85°F, cool side 72–78°F)
  • Digital probe thermometer for the warm side and a second for the cool side
  • Digital hygrometer
  • Lighting: Linear T5 UVB (6–10%) across the basking zone
  • Substrate: Cypress mulch or soil blend, 4–6 in deep
  • At least two hides — one warm, one cool
  • Water bowl, heavy enough not to tip
  • Clutter: cork bark, branches, plants and leaf litter for cover
  • Reptile-safe disinfectant and paper towel for spot cleaning

Supplies & shopping list

Enclosure

  • •Adults: 4x2x2 ft minimum with deep substrate for burrowing
  • •Secure lock or clips
  • •Background or opaque sides for security

Heating

  • •Basking 95–105°F, ambient 78–85°F, cool side 72–78°F
  • •Thermostat (dimming or pulse-proportional)
  • •Digital probe thermometers
  • •Infrared temp gun for surface readings

Lighting

  • •Linear T5 UVB (6–10%) across the basking zone
  • •Timer for a consistent 12/12 photoperiod

Substrate

  • •Cypress mulch or soil blend, 4–6 in deep
  • •Spare bag for full changes

Decor

  • •Two hides
  • •Cork bark, branches or climbing structure
  • •Leaf litter and plants for cover
  • •Water bowl

Food & tools

  • •Omnivore: ~50% greens/vegetables, ~40% protein (insects, cooked egg, quality wet dog food), ~10% fruit
  • •Juveniles daily, adults 2–3x weekly
  • •Feeding tongs
  • •Hygrometer
  • •Reptile-safe disinfectant

Diet & feeding

What they eat

Omnivore: ~50% greens/vegetables, ~40% protein (insects, cooked egg, quality wet dog food), ~10% fruit

How often

Juveniles daily, adults 2–3x weekly

Water

Large bowl, changed daily

Handling

Excellent — one of the most handleable lizards in the hobby

Beginner mistakes to avoid

  • •Under-housing: floor space and basking distance matter more than any other single factor
  • •Using coil or compact UVB instead of a linear T5, or never replacing the bulb
  • •Skipping calcium and multivitamin dusting on feeder insects
  • •Measuring air temperature instead of the basking surface temperature

Common problems to watch for

  • •Obesity from overfeeding rich protein
  • •Respiratory infection in cool, damp housing

When to see a vet

Any of these warrant an appointment with an experienced exotics veterinarian, not a wait-and-see.

  • •Soft or rubbery jaw, tremors, twitching or dragging back legs — metabolic bone disease
  • •Not passing stool for over a week with a loss of appetite — possible impaction
  • •Swollen limbs or joints, or a jaw that no longer closes
  • •Discharge from the eyes, nose or mouth; laboured breathing
  • •Sudden weight loss, sunken eyes or a persistently dark stress colour

Myths vs facts

UVB is optional if you feed supplements.

Fact: Most diurnal lizards need UVB to synthesise D3. Supplements alone rarely prevent metabolic bone disease.

A bulb that still lights up is still producing UVB.

Fact: UV output decays long before the bulb fails. Replace on schedule, typically every 12 months.

Loose substrate always causes impaction.

Fact: Impaction is usually driven by low temperatures, dehydration or poor diet — not by substrate on its own.

Keeper tips

  • •Know the locality you own — Indonesian and Australian species have very different humidity needs

These guides describe widely accepted husbandry practice and are not veterinary advice. Consult an experienced exotics veterinarian for health concerns.

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