White's Tree Frog care guide
Litoria caerulea
A placid, chunky arboreal frog with an almost cartoonish expression, and one of the very few amphibians that tolerates brief handling.
Quick reference
Temperature
75–82°F day, 68–75°F night
Humidity
50–70%
Lighting
2–5% UVB recommended
Enclosure size
18x18x24 in vertical for 1–2 adults, with branches and broad-leaved plants
Lifespan
15–20 years
Adult size
3–4.5 in
Substrate
Coconut soil, bioactive with drainage layer
Water
Large shallow dechlorinated water dish, changed daily
Setup checklist
Everything that should be running and stable before the animal comes home. Print this and tick it off.
- Adult-sized enclosure: 18x18x24 in vertical for 1–2 adults, with branches and broad-leaved plants
- Heat source on a thermostat — never plugged straight into the wall (75–82°F day, 68–75°F night)
- Digital probe thermometer for the warm side and a second for the cool side
- Digital hygrometer
- Lighting: 2–5% UVB recommended
- Substrate: Coconut soil, bioactive with drainage layer
- At least two hides — one warm, one cool
- Water bowl, heavy enough not to tip
- Clutter: cork bark, branches, plants and leaf litter for cover
- Reptile-safe disinfectant and paper towel for spot cleaning
Supplies & shopping list
Enclosure
- •18x18x24 in vertical for 1–2 adults, with branches and broad-leaved plants
- •Secure lock or clips
- •Background or opaque sides for security
Heating
- •75–82°F day, 68–75°F night
- •Thermostat (dimming or pulse-proportional)
- •Digital probe thermometers
- •Infrared temp gun for surface readings
Lighting
- •2–5% UVB recommended
- •Timer for a consistent 12/12 photoperiod
Substrate
- •Coconut soil, bioactive with drainage layer
- •Spare bag for full changes
Decor
- •Two hides
- •Cork bark, branches or climbing structure
- •Leaf litter and plants for cover
- •Water bowl
Food & tools
- •Crickets, dubia roaches, hornworms; dusted with calcium
- •Juveniles daily, adults 2–3x weekly
- •Feeding tongs
- •Hygrometer
- •Reptile-safe disinfectant
Diet & feeding
What they eat
Crickets, dubia roaches, hornworms; dusted with calcium
How often
Juveniles daily, adults 2–3x weekly
Water
Large shallow dechlorinated water dish, changed daily
Handling
Brief, with clean wet hands only
Beginner mistakes to avoid
- •Using untreated tap water anywhere near the animal
- •Handling with dry hands, which strips the protective slime coat
- •Overfeeding — obesity is the number one welfare problem in captive amphibians
- •Keeping the enclosure soggy rather than damp, which invites bacterial infection
Common problems to watch for
- •Obesity — the classic overfed 'dumpy' frog
- •Bacterial skin infections from dirty water
When to see a vet
Any of these warrant an appointment with an experienced exotics veterinarian, not a wait-and-see.
- •Red, inflamed skin on the belly or legs — septicaemia, an emergency
- •Bloating or fluid retention
- •Excess slime, cloudy skin patches or open sores
- •Refusing food with visible weight loss, or straining to pass stool
- •Gasping at the surface or floating unable to right itself
Myths vs facts
Amphibians are good handling pets.
Fact: Their skin absorbs everything it touches. Handling should be rare, brief and with clean, wet hands.
Tap water is fine if it sits out overnight.
Fact: Chloramine does not gas off. Always use a dechlorinator.
A fat frog is a healthy frog.
Fact: Obesity shortens amphibian lifespans dramatically. Feed to condition, not to appetite.
Keeper tips
- •If fat rolls cover the eardrums, cut feeding back
These guides describe widely accepted husbandry practice and are not veterinary advice. Consult an experienced exotics veterinarian for health concerns.
