Pacman Frog care guide
Ceratophrys spp.
A round, sedentary ambush predator that spends most of its life buried. Simple to keep, dramatic to feed, and not a handling animal.
Quick reference
Temperature
78–82°F day, no lower than 72°F at night
Humidity
60–80%
Lighting
Low UVB optional; avoid bright light
Enclosure size
Adults: 18x18x12 in — floor space over height
Lifespan
7–10 years
Adult size
4–7 in (females larger)
Substrate
Coconut fiber or sphagnum-topped soil, 3–4 in, kept damp not soggy
Water
Shallow dechlorinated dish; amphibians absorb through the skin
Setup checklist
Everything that should be running and stable before the animal comes home. Print this and tick it off.
- Adult-sized enclosure: Adults: 18x18x12 in — floor space over height
- Heat source on a thermostat — never plugged straight into the wall (78–82°F day, no lower than 72°F at night)
- Digital probe thermometer for the warm side and a second for the cool side
- Digital hygrometer
- Lighting: Low UVB optional; avoid bright light
- Substrate: Coconut fiber or sphagnum-topped soil, 3–4 in, kept damp not soggy
- At least two hides — one warm, one cool
- Water bowl, heavy enough not to tip
- Clutter: cork bark, branches, plants and leaf litter for cover
- Reptile-safe disinfectant and paper towel for spot cleaning
Supplies & shopping list
Enclosure
- •Adults: 18x18x12 in — floor space over height
- •Secure lock or clips
- •Background or opaque sides for security
Heating
- •78–82°F day, no lower than 72°F at night
- •Thermostat (dimming or pulse-proportional)
- •Digital probe thermometers
- •Infrared temp gun for surface readings
Lighting
- •Low UVB optional; avoid bright light
- •Timer for a consistent 12/12 photoperiod
Substrate
- •Coconut fiber or sphagnum-topped soil, 3–4 in, kept damp not soggy
- •Spare bag for full changes
Decor
- •Two hides
- •Cork bark, branches or climbing structure
- •Leaf litter and plants for cover
- •Water bowl
Food & tools
- •Insects, and occasional appropriately sized rodents for adults
- •Juveniles every 1–2 days, adults every 4–7 days
- •Feeding tongs
- •Hygrometer
- •Reptile-safe disinfectant
Diet & feeding
What they eat
Insects, and occasional appropriately sized rodents for adults
How often
Juveniles every 1–2 days, adults every 4–7 days
Water
Shallow dechlorinated dish; amphibians absorb through the skin
Handling
Avoid — handle only with wet, powder-free gloves when necessary
Beginner mistakes to avoid
- •Using untreated tap water anywhere near the animal
- •Handling with dry hands, which strips the protective slime coat
- •Overfeeding — obesity is the number one welfare problem in captive amphibians
- •Keeping the enclosure soggy rather than damp, which invites bacterial infection
Common problems to watch for
- •Impaction from dry substrate
- •Obesity from rodent-heavy diets
- •Chemical burns from untreated tap water
When to see a vet
Any of these warrant an appointment with an experienced exotics veterinarian, not a wait-and-see.
- •Red, inflamed skin on the belly or legs — septicaemia, an emergency
- •Bloating or fluid retention
- •Excess slime, cloudy skin patches or open sores
- •Refusing food with visible weight loss, or straining to pass stool
- •Gasping at the surface or floating unable to right itself
Myths vs facts
Amphibians are good handling pets.
Fact: Their skin absorbs everything it touches. Handling should be rare, brief and with clean, wet hands.
Tap water is fine if it sits out overnight.
Fact: Chloramine does not gas off. Always use a dechlorinator.
A fat frog is a healthy frog.
Fact: Obesity shortens amphibian lifespans dramatically. Feed to condition, not to appetite.
Keeper tips
- •Always dechlorinate every drop of water that touches an amphibian
These guides describe widely accepted husbandry practice and are not veterinary advice. Consult an experienced exotics veterinarian for health concerns.
