Tarantula (New World terrestrial) care guide
Grammostola / Brachypelma spp.
Low-maintenance, long-lived display invertebrates. New World terrestrials like the Chilean rose and Mexican red knee are the standard entry point.
Quick reference
Temperature
70–80°F room temperature; supplemental heat rarely needed
Humidity
Species-dependent: arid species 50–60%, tropical species 70–80%
Lighting
None — avoid bright light entirely
Enclosure size
Floor space roughly 3x the leg span; height no more than 1.5x leg span to prevent fatal falls
Lifespan
Females 20–30 years, males 5–10 years
Adult size
4–7 in leg span
Substrate
Coconut fiber or peat, deep enough to burrow (4+ in)
Water
Small shallow water dish, always full
Setup checklist
Everything that should be running and stable before the animal comes home. Print this and tick it off.
- Enclosure with cross-ventilation: Floor space roughly 3x the leg span; height no more than 1.5x leg span to prevent fatal falls
- Substrate deep enough to burrow: Coconut fiber or peat, deep enough to burrow (4+ in)
- Cork bark hide or starter burrow
- Shallow water dish
- Hygrometer and a spray bottle for spot-moistening
- Long feeding tongs
Supplies & shopping list
Enclosure
- •Floor space roughly 3x the leg span; height no more than 1.5x leg span to prevent fatal falls
- •Secure lock or clips
- •Background or opaque sides for security
Heating
- •70–80°F room temperature; supplemental heat rarely needed
- •Thermostat (dimming or pulse-proportional)
- •Digital probe thermometers
- •Infrared temp gun for surface readings
Lighting
- •None — avoid bright light entirely
- •Timer for a consistent 12/12 photoperiod
Substrate
- •Coconut fiber or peat, deep enough to burrow (4+ in)
- •Spare bag for full changes
Decor
- •Two hides
- •Cork bark, branches or climbing structure
- •Leaf litter and plants for cover
- •Water bowl
Food & tools
- •Crickets, dubia roaches or mealworms no larger than the spider's body
- •Slings twice weekly, adults every 1–2 weeks; never feed during a moult
- •Feeding tongs
- •Hygrometer
- •Reptile-safe disinfectant
Diet & feeding
What they eat
Crickets, dubia roaches or mealworms no larger than the spider's body
How often
Slings twice weekly, adults every 1–2 weeks; never feed during a moult
Water
Small shallow water dish, always full
Handling
Don't. Falls are lethal and urticating hairs are seriously irritating
Beginner mistakes to avoid
- •Tall enclosures that make a fall lethal for a terrestrial species
- •Handling — for the spider's safety, not yours
- •Poking or feeding a spider that is on its back moulting
- •Flooding the substrate instead of keeping it lightly damp at depth
Common problems to watch for
- •Fatal falls from tall enclosures
- •Disturbing a moulting spider
- •Mould from over-misting
When to see a vet
Any of these warrant an appointment with an experienced exotics veterinarian, not a wait-and-see.
- •A stuck or incomplete moult — do not intervene without advice
- •A leaking wound from a fall — an emergency for a tarantula
- •Prolonged lethargy with a shrunken abdomen and no interest in water
- •Death curl (legs tucked underneath) — usually dehydration, act immediately
Myths vs facts
Tarantula bites are medically dangerous.
Fact: New World species have mild venom; the bigger risks are urticating hairs and dropping the animal.
A spider on its back is dying.
Fact: That is the normal moulting posture. Leave it completely alone for about a week.
Invertebrates do not need water dishes.
Fact: Dehydration is the most common cause of death in captive inverts. Keep a shallow dish full.
Keeper tips
- •A tarantula on its back is moulting, not dying — leave it completely alone for a week
These guides describe widely accepted husbandry practice and are not veterinary advice. Consult an experienced exotics veterinarian for health concerns.
