Isopods care guide
Porcellio / Cubaris / Armadillidium spp.
Terrestrial crustaceans kept both as a hobby in their own right and as the cleanup crew of every bioactive enclosure.
Quick reference
Temperature
68–80°F
Humidity
Moist on one end, dry on the other — the gradient matters more than the number
Lighting
None required
Enclosure size
6-quart tub upward with cross-ventilation and a moist/dry gradient
Lifespan
1.5–3 years
Adult size
0.3–1.5 in depending on species
Substrate
Soil, decaying hardwood leaf litter and rotting wood
Water
Keep one side of the substrate damp; no standing water needed
Setup checklist
Everything that should be running and stable before the animal comes home. Print this and tick it off.
- Enclosure with cross-ventilation: 6-quart tub upward with cross-ventilation and a moist/dry gradient
- Substrate deep enough to burrow: Soil, decaying hardwood leaf litter and rotting wood
- Cork bark hide or starter burrow
- Shallow water dish
- Hygrometer and a spray bottle for spot-moistening
- Long feeding tongs
Supplies & shopping list
Enclosure
- •6-quart tub upward with cross-ventilation and a moist/dry gradient
- •Secure lock or clips
- •Background or opaque sides for security
Heating
- •68–80°F
- •Thermostat (dimming or pulse-proportional)
- •Digital probe thermometers
- •Infrared temp gun for surface readings
Lighting
- •None required
- •Timer for a consistent 12/12 photoperiod
Substrate
- •Soil, decaying hardwood leaf litter and rotting wood
- •Spare bag for full changes
Decor
- •Two hides
- •Cork bark, branches or climbing structure
- •Leaf litter and plants for cover
- •Water bowl
Food & tools
- •Leaf litter, wood, vegetable scraps, plus a protein source (fish flake) and calcium (cuttlebone)
- •Top up food and leaf litter every 1–2 weeks
- •Feeding tongs
- •Hygrometer
- •Reptile-safe disinfectant
Diet & feeding
What they eat
Leaf litter, wood, vegetable scraps, plus a protein source (fish flake) and calcium (cuttlebone)
How often
Top up food and leaf litter every 1–2 weeks
Water
Keep one side of the substrate damp; no standing water needed
Handling
Harmless, though gentle handling stresses them
Beginner mistakes to avoid
- •Housing a terrestrial species in a tall enclosure where a fall can be fatal
- •Disturbing or feeding an animal that is in premoult or moulting
- •Over-misting until mould and mites take hold
- •Assuming no water dish is needed — dehydration kills slowly and quietly
Common problems to watch for
- •Colony crash from no calcium or protein
- •Mite blooms from overfeeding wet food
When to see a vet
Any of these warrant an appointment with an experienced exotics veterinarian, not a wait-and-see.
- •A stuck or incomplete moult — do not intervene without advice
- •A leaking wound from a fall — an emergency for a tarantula
- •Prolonged lethargy with a shrunken abdomen and no interest in water
- •Death curl (legs tucked underneath) — usually dehydration, act immediately
Myths vs facts
Tarantula bites are medically dangerous.
Fact: New World species have mild venom; the bigger risks are urticating hairs and dropping the animal.
A spider on its back is dying.
Fact: That is the normal moulting posture. Leave it completely alone for about a week.
Invertebrates do not need water dishes.
Fact: Dehydration is the most common cause of death in captive inverts. Keep a shallow dish full.
Keeper tips
- •Give a colony 3–6 months to establish before harvesting for bioactive setups
These guides describe widely accepted husbandry practice and are not veterinary advice. Consult an experienced exotics veterinarian for health concerns.
