Western Hognose Snake care guide
Heterodon nasicus
A small, charismatic, upturned-nosed digger famous for its dramatic bluffing display. Rear-fanged but medically insignificant to most people.
Quick reference
Temperature
Warm side 88–90°F, cool side 72–75°F
Humidity
30–50% — a dry species
Lighting
Low UVB is beneficial; they are diurnal
Enclosure size
Adults: 36x18x18 in with deep, diggable substrate
Lifespan
15–20 years
Adult size
Males 14–24 in, females 24–36 in
Substrate
Aspen or a sand/soil mix at least 4 in deep
Water
Small bowl; keep the substrate dry
Setup checklist
Everything that should be running and stable before the animal comes home. Print this and tick it off.
- Adult-sized enclosure: Adults: 36x18x18 in with deep, diggable substrate
- Heat source on a thermostat — never plugged straight into the wall (Warm side 88–90°F, cool side 72–75°F)
- Digital probe thermometer for the warm side and a second for the cool side
- Digital hygrometer
- Lighting: Low UVB is beneficial; they are diurnal
- Substrate: Aspen or a sand/soil mix at least 4 in deep
- At least two hides — one warm, one cool
- Water bowl, heavy enough not to tip
- Clutter: cork bark, branches, plants and leaf litter for cover
- Reptile-safe disinfectant and paper towel for spot cleaning
Supplies & shopping list
Enclosure
- •Adults: 36x18x18 in with deep, diggable substrate
- •Secure lock or clips
- •Background or opaque sides for security
Heating
- •Warm side 88–90°F, cool side 72–75°F
- •Thermostat (dimming or pulse-proportional)
- •Digital probe thermometers
- •Infrared temp gun for surface readings
Lighting
- •Low UVB is beneficial; they are diurnal
- •Timer for a consistent 12/12 photoperiod
Substrate
- •Aspen or a sand/soil mix at least 4 in deep
- •Spare bag for full changes
Decor
- •Two hides
- •Cork bark, branches or climbing structure
- •Leaf litter and plants for cover
- •Water bowl
Food & tools
- •Frozen/thawed mice; some individuals need scenting with toad or tuna at first
- •Every 5–7 days
- •Feeding tongs
- •Hygrometer
- •Reptile-safe disinfectant
Diet & feeding
What they eat
Frozen/thawed mice; some individuals need scenting with toad or tuna at first
How often
Every 5–7 days
Water
Small bowl; keep the substrate dry
Handling
Handles well, though hissing and mock strikes are normal theatre
Beginner mistakes to avoid
- •Buying a hatchling-sized tub and never upgrading to a proper adult enclosure
- •Running a heat mat or bulb without a thermostat, which is the most common cause of burns
- •Handling within 48 hours of a meal and triggering a regurgitation
- •Judging humidity by eye instead of with a digital hygrometer
Common problems to watch for
- •Picky feeding in juveniles
- •Males going off food seasonally in winter
When to see a vet
Any of these warrant an appointment with an experienced exotics veterinarian, not a wait-and-see.
- •Open-mouth breathing, wheezing, whistling or bubbles at the nostrils — respiratory infection
- •Discoloured, blistered or ulcerated belly scales — scale rot or a thermal burn
- •Refusing food for months alongside visible weight loss or a sunken spine
- •Regurgitating repeatedly, or passing runny, foul-smelling stool
- •Stargazing, corkscrewing or loss of righting reflex — neurological, urgent
Myths vs facts
Snakes grow to the size of their enclosure.
Fact: They grow to their genetic size regardless. A cramped enclosure only causes stress and poor muscle tone.
Live prey is more natural and therefore better.
Fact: Frozen/thawed is safer and just as complete. Live rodents routinely injure or kill captive snakes.
Heat rocks are a good heat source.
Fact: They create hot spots that cause serious burns. Use a thermostatted mat or overhead heater instead.
Keeper tips
- •Never handle right after feeding — regurgitation is common in this species
These guides describe widely accepted husbandry practice and are not veterinary advice. Consult an experienced exotics veterinarian for health concerns.
